Wild South African Eats: Tastes of the Road

5:46 AM Jmo 2 Comments

     Half the fun of travel is eating! They say the quickest way to a man's heart is through his stomach; therefore, I think it's fair to say the quickest way to experience a culture is through our own stomachs. Language barriers can quickly be squashed and forgotten by sitting down to some food and drink. Try and appreciate the local cuisine and not only will you be richer because of it, but your relationships with the locals will be as well. I can almost guarantee it. 
     This is my culinary mindset when I travel. My normal diet is plant based and I typically adhere to a vegetarian or vegan diet. But I do make some small exceptions while traveling to fully experience the culture, show respect to the locals, and just overall live it up and check things off my foodie Bucket List.  (Though I do advocate responsible eating regardless of country. Be aware of endangered species, destructive cultivation methods, and conservation efforts while traveling. Please! Be a mindful travler!)

     My time here in South Africa has been no different. Though I did challenge myself to remain vegan for an entire month here in SA, (post here: A Vegan Diet In South Africa), I have strayed into unfamiliar and somewhat "exotic" culinary exploits during my first jaunt here in Africa. And let me tell you, South Africa is delicious!  I've yet to have a bad meal here!  Vegetarian or otherwise... South Africans know how to eat, cook, and enjoy everything that their land has to offer. And not only is the food here delicious but, for the most part, it's healthy as well.  Good on you, SA!
Here are some of my top eats that you can most likely only find here in South Africa...
Biltong:
     Biltong, though many South Africans would recoil at this statement, is very similar to beef jerky. Cured strips of meat, sliced into strips or bits, seasoned to perfection amounts to South Africa's favorite snack.
     Biltong comes in all sorts of styles and meat varieties. Beef being the most typical, ranging all the way to more exotic varieties such as kudu, springbok, impala, crocodile, kangaroo, wildebeest, and giraffe. Yes, giraffe. 
Never thought I'd nibble on giraffe...

     I've tried a few different varieties, and thought I'm a Veggie at heart, I can be a sucker for this stuff. South Africans in general swear by it and it has truly been a staple food ingrained in their culture. I dare say you haven't truly experienced South Africa without diving your hand into a brown paper bag, oil stained and full of biltong.

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Bunny Chow:
     Now, I haven't been to Durban, yet (where I hear the true Bunny Chow is made and eaten), but my South African boyfriend claims to have found a fair and equally delicious substitute here in the capital city of Pretoria. 
     Bunny Chow is a beautiful thing. I love bread. And I love curry. I love good bread. And I love good curry. Combine those things together and you have the spicy, delicious, calorie-packed, powerhouse called Bunny Chow.  (No, it's not made with bunnies. Don't worry, my vegetarianess couldn't stray that far!)
     Originating in the Durban Indian community, this delectable "fast food" is simple, yet satisfying: Cut a loaf of bread in half. Hollow it out. Fill with your choice of curry. And mow down.  It's so good. I could probably eat one every day.  But then again, I'd be giving a new definition to the term "chubby bunny" if I did.


     It's said that Bunny Chow was developed by Indian migrant workers coming to South Africa and the bread loaf stems from a lack of access to traditional Indian breads, such as roti. The convenience and "take away" style of the bread loaf can also be attributed to the Apartheid regime of South Africa when segregation prevented different cultural groups, such as Indians, from entering certain restaurants or shops.  Regardless of its hard and tumultuous roots, Bunny Chow is here to stay. And thank goodness, because it's delicious.

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Chakalaka:
     (Cha-Kah-Lah-Kah) Not only is this South African side dish fun to say, it's equally appealing to eat!  Sweet, salty, spicy, hearty in texture and flavor, chakalaka found an easy path into my heart.  It's typically served with pap (a thick, starchy, porridge type dish made from ground maize), chakalaka recipes vary. Most recipes though contain beans, tomatoes, onion, chilies, and curry paste.


     Now, it's not exactly filling like a Winter chili or anything; even with the beans. Chakalaka is more of a side relish. The first time I tried to cook with it I paired it over top of wild rice and I was in comfort food heaven. It's cheap, sweet and vibrant in flavor, and can be paired with almost everything.  Nom, nom, nom ~Chakalaklakalakaaah~  (Go on, say it!)

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Fantastic Fusion:
     South Africa is composed of an incredible amount of different cultures, languages, and ancestry. (South Africa has 11 official national languages! Eleven!) So with all this heritage comes an astounding amount of distinct food cultures. But, what's really fun is seeing how these distinct food cultures mix together to create a remarkable and delectable fusion food scene.  Being an American coming from my own beautiful melting pot of a country, I'm no stranger to fusion food. I embrace it, I love it, and I love the creative potential with little to no boundaries. 
     Though it is important to hold on to cultural traditions and Grandma's secret recipes, it's also fun to shake things up a bit. Ostrich sushi anyone?

Baobab restaurant, Pretoria
     

     Here we have two prime, modern, and yummy examples of South African fusion. Number 1: Ostrich sushi. Though I wouldn't say that it's a popular dish by any means, somehow it found its way onto my plate. The ostrich was smoked and delicate and paired with cream cheese; the ultimate sign of fusion sushi. I wonder how the Japanese would find this?
    Number 2: "Modern" Potjie. Poitje is an Afrikaans stew, simmered in a cast iron pot outdoors. It's hearty, flavorful, and reeks of farm to table; synonymous with Afrikaans farming culture. This stew is often thought to have been born from the collaborative cooking efforts of both the Afrikaaner farmers and Malaysian immigrant workers. A lot of veggies, copious amounts of thick, mild coconut milk (traditionally cooked with beer, though my dish was a fusion of a fusion!), Dutch-Malay spices, and the meat of your choosing (though I opted for none) served with rice. 
Hungry for more? Don't worry, my ravenous appetite for South African cuisine is just getting started. Check back later for more foodie conquests.
Have a great, unknown, yummy food suggestion? Let me know I'd love to write about (and eat!) it.
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2 comments:

Combatting Prejudice & Stereotypes, home and abroad

8:17 AM Jmo 2 Comments


Yes, I’m an American.  No,  I’m not a stereotype.

     Stereotypes are an institute for ignorance. Either the one implementing the stereotypes on others or the one perpetuating their own, we all can do better to rid ourselves of these segregative chains holding us back from true progress. Does that sound a little over-dramatic and extreme to you? It may to some, but it’s something I strongly believe in. Relying on stereotypes to claim negative-knowledge over a person or culture is my upmost pet peeve. I believe that stereotypes stem from prejudice and general gross misunderstandings that have exponentially gotten out of hand and has found its way into other peoples’ psyche via spoon fed ignorance and bandwagon hate-mongering. 

     I deeply detest all forms of prejudice. Racist, sexist, nationalist, religious, etc. All of it. And, through my travels, I’ve encountered that most people are tolerant and accepting. Which is how it should be. But there are many strong instances where so called “open-minded” travelers and locals spit out blatant, hateful, generalizations about fellow travelers, cultures, or about the people in whichever country they find themselves in. Don’t fall into this category. Your so-called worldliness can be squashed as soon as you open your mouth. 
     Everyone can be a victim to prejudice and stereotypical categorization. Prejudices exist inside and outside every country.  And since I’ve been traveling and living as an expat for the past two and half years, I’ve dealt with my fair share of it. And it’s actually driven me to a breaking point once or twice (hence this article). I’ve been a symbolic punching bag more times than I can count and enough is enough.


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     -While in Borneo, I met a man and fellow traveler, at least 30 years my senior, who within 2 minutes of meeting me decided to call me fat, lazy, and stupid simply because my answer to “Where are you from?” was “The United States”.  I’m pretty sure that I’m fairly fit (I’ve played soccer most of my life), have supported myself financially through teaching and art since graduating with my BFA, and I’m also not the one dumping hate-filled prejudice on someone they’ve just met.   

     -While in Vietnam, I met a man (slightly younger than me) and fellow traveler who claimed that I was everything wrong with the world simply because (yet again) I introduced myself as an American. I don’t know what I did to deserve such a title, considering we’d just met, had barely spoken a word to one another, and were currently having a lovely dinner with a new group of friends. I guess he needed a punching bag? 

     -While in South Korea (where I lived and worked for two years), I was crossing the street coming back from grocery shopping when an elderly man, mid crosswalk, pushed his hand into my face and said, “Korea is our country!”, and walked away. I was simply carrying groceries back to my apartment.

     -While in South Africa, I’ve heard numerous times how fat and “stupid” Americans are and how much deep fried dough and sugar I eat and how much pop I drink. I’ve actually lost weight since I’ve lived here and I don’t drink pop (soda). Strange.
While in Australia, I was confronted by a group of teenagers who asked why I started the war in Iraq. I was 15 at the time. Not old enough to vote, not old enough to join the military… yet I somehow started a war. Incredible.

     -And, my favorite: I’ve heard numerous times, in numerous countries, how “different” I am from most Americans. Or, I know you’re not “the typical American”, but (insert insult here) —speech ,or, the backtracking (insert insult here), Oh! But not you, of course. You’re different. —speech.

Tell me… how many Americans, other than myself, have you met or do you know personally? Oh. I’m the only one? Then how do you know I’m the exception to this rule you so passionately speak of? 
And tell me… What was it like choosing your birth destination while in the womb? Was it multiple choice? Did you phone a friend? 
Was it voting ballot , hole-punch style? 
Was it confusing deciphering which hole to punch? 
I’m curious about this process as I have no recollection of it.

The ignorant spouting more ignorance.

     These are my personal experiences, of course. And honestly, it does hurt sometimes. I’ve cried in a hostel bunk bed before, sure. I’ve yet to learn to turn a deaf ear to it all. I used to brush it off more easily, but after time and time again ...it begins to chip away at you. 
     You’re not only insulting me, you’re insulting my family, my friends, and the place where I call home. So yes, it affects a great deal. Obviously, I can only speak from the experiences of an American traveler. But stereotype-spewing and prejudice hate-mongering exists for people of all national backgrounds, as I'm sure you're well aware. We all have different experiences with this. But one thing reigns true: It’s no fun being hated for something you’re not guilty of. 

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Why?:
     Stereotypes might seem playful to some, and it seems to me (from personal experience) that degrading Americans seems to be fair game in this regard…(I’ve encountered many people who jump on the ‘Americans are fat, ignorant, racists’-bandwagon the moment it’s brought up.) But it’s still counterproductive and may in fact reveal a more deep-seeded prejudice.  What have I, personally, ever done to you?

A recent Google search of mine. Nice.

     Sure, some do ruin it for the rest of us. I’ve met my fair share of people that do perpetuate the stereotypes that he or she might be labeled with. But ultimately it is a small few that garner the negative attention for the rest. Think about it. Remember that “class clown” in high school who always had the attention of the entire class? Maybe he or she was funny, disruptive, or disrespectful… whatever they were, I’m sure you remember them. But, did they speak for you? Did they represent your entire class? Did you dress the same, speak the same, look the same, act the same, come from the same family, represent your family, have the same hair color, get the same grades? Was he or she the same weight as you, same eye color, same, same, same? Surely not. This analogy can be applied to a larger context.
     Does the actions of one’s government always represent the sentiment of all its people? Do you stand by every political decision made by your government? Do you believe that everyone in every respective country believes the same thing? Practices the same religion? Eats the same food? Raises their children the same way? Surely not.
     So why judge any other group of people based on a small few? Why judge an entire group of people based on one or two, or maybe none!, that we’ve encountered. It seems that it is human nature to judge and generalize. We’re afraid of what we don’t understand. I can be guilty of this as well. But, I do my best not to be. It’s absurd when you step back and think about it. 
Some people claim that stereotypes exist due to a majority. But, in my personal experience and opinion, they exist due to extremism that has been sensationalized by innately prejudice groups or, the ever-loving, media. Crazy sells. Do you ever think you’d see a news story about a majority of polite people sitting around being polite and logical? No. Extremism and sensationalism make the newscasters, and the viewers, drool.  Extremist views are not the norm, that’s why they’re called (Yep, you guessed it!) extreme. (Not in the 1990’s sense, because that would be obviously awesome…) 
     Sure! I’ve joked about “Murrica” before, but that’s because I find those extremist views equally ridiculous. They may exist, but they do not represent the majority or myself for that matter. I’m proud to call myself an American.  I am an American, but first and foremost (like all of us): I’m a human being and I strive to change what I find unjust in my country. Don't loop me in with extremism before you know where I stand.

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What you can do:

     Of course, the majority of people I’ve met while traveling are genuinely lovely people. Absolutely lovely! I’ve met people who I briefly spoke to for ten minutes in a pub in Korea but we continue to be friends online to this day. And chat regularly! I’ve made friends all over this beautiful world of ours and continue to do so. But, like I said before, I’ve also met many who within ten minutes of meeting are intent to reduce me down to a stereotypical shell based on nothing more than where I was born.

So. What to do if this happens to you? What can and should you do when encountering prejudice?

          1.) Be bigger than their hate-speech. Don’t lower yourself down their level and retaliate. Prove your counter-stereotype, or that of the culture being attacked, and prove your intelligence by not engaging. You’re smarter than them. Show it.
          2.) Repeat Step 1.
          3.) If this doesn’t work, walk away. They’re not worth your time and they’re not worth ruining a holiday over. There are more lovely people out there than not, so go hang out with them instead.
          4.) Or, if you’re feeling courageous and feisty (I’m at this point now) ask them why they felt the need to say that to you? Usually the response is: “Well, …oh come on! You know what I mean!”  No, actually I don’t.  I’ve never shot a gun in my life. I’m most definitely not a racist. And no, I’m not having donuts for dinner.  I actually prefer vegetables. Surprise!



Conclusion:

      Simply put: Stereotypes, racist and sexist jokes, culminating into xenophobia, hold us back and I’m sick of it. They hold us back from experiencing real people, they hold us back from truly experiencing new cultures, and so much more. Even if you feel like the small little quip you’re about to deliver is harmless, be sure that it doesn’t come from something more deeply seeded. We are all in this world together. Let’s act like it. Don’t segregate people via hate-speech. You’re more intelligent than that.  Right?

     I guess all I’m really trying to say is (though, in all actuality, it’s silly that it even has to be said): Don’t assume. Give people more than their fair share at a chance. Think before you speak.  And, Love each other.  Dammit. 



Ok. I can get off my soap box now…   phew!


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2 comments:

Fugu: Food To Die For.

9:10 AM Jmo 0 Comments

     When I lived in and worked in Korea as an elementary English teacher, it was customary to show face at dinner “meetings” after school. These usually took place on Wednesdays or Fridays and lasted anywhere from two to four hours, depending how rowdy your principal and fellows teachers planned on getting that night.
     While in South Korea, I chose to be extremely flexible when it came to my diet; try everything! South Koreans bond over food. The dishes are typically large, communally served, and sat in the middle of the dining table. They’re culture fastens around dining together and any effort put towards this cultural bond is greatly appreciated. So, when these dinner meetings came to be, I genuinely took interest in asking what was for dinner out of pure cultural curiosity. I never once thought that I should ask what was for dinner in order to live another year longer.
A typical 'Teacher-Meeting'.

     One Friday after school, like so many before, we all went out together to a local restaurant near our elementary school. What are we having?  Ah, we’re having fish stew. Fish stew? Ok, I can handle that. I’ve eaten fish intestine stew with my coworkers before so this dish seemed like the Minor Leagues.  A colleague of mine filled up my bowl with a giggle and placed it in front of me. It was a small, shallow bowl, full of a mild broth, onions, greens vegetables, and white pieces of fish with thick skin clinging to it. It was quite beautiful actually and I welcomed the change from the usual beef or heavy starchy-salty rice dishes we usually go out for. I took a few bites, and slurped down some broth. I sat for a bit, chatting to my coworkers, when suddenly …the inside of my mouth began to go numb. 

      My gums tingled, my tongue felt swollen, and my lips felt anesthetized.  I dove a bit deeper into my stew and turned over the large, pale chunk of fish inside. At the end of the thick, white and green striped, gelatinous skin was a spiny bit of tail. Immediately the inside of my chest became hot. I knew what this was: This was FUGU: A poisonous Japanese blowfish.

    I paused, my spoon hovering chin-distance above my bowl, and looked up at my coworkers. “Is this fugu?”, I said motioning at the large, simmering pot in the middle of all of us.  Two of my colleagues quickly whipped out their phones and began to scroll through to find a translation of the Korean dishe's name. "Here!", my sweet Sumin said proudly displaying the word blowfish on her phone. Then another coworker joined in showing me an article in English on her phone, not understanding that the title of the article contained the word "poison" in it. ha!

My bowl of Fugu~

    Did I die? Obviously not? Was I happy to be alive later on in the night?
Somewhat, yes. Would I've rather been asked beforehand when eating a poisonous animal? Maybe. But, sometimes it's better to be blissfully ignorant? The jury is still out on that one...

      Fugu, when not prepared properly, can be fatal when ingested. Its organs contain a poison that when consumed can cause paralysis and death with similar affects of coming into contact with a nerve agent. Fugu poison is 1,200 times stronger than cyanide. And! There is no antidote. Now you can see why I was a bit flustered when my mouth began to go numb...
'dat Fugu, doe
(photo credit National Geographic)

     Fugu has a relatively bland taste. Its flesh and texture reminded me of an undercooked catfish.  Its meat is white, gelatinous, and disappears into whatever other flavors you cook it with. So, why eat it? 
     Like many dangerous, "exotic", or rare foods in Asia it's all about showing your manliness. Fugu, and many dishes like it, can show strength or weakness, wealth and power, status and virility. It's expensive, it's relatively rare, and it can kill you. All those factors make it highly sought after. That's exactly why we had it at our teacher's dinner. My principal was showing off.

     Will I try it again? No.  Do I suggest you do? Not really. But if you're into checking off  'Bucket List' worthy food items... look no further than Fugu: A Food To Die For.

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Two Weekends In Cape Town

11:57 AM Jmo 0 Comments




Cape Town Vibes~!

   
     Cape Town.

     There's hardly a trendy travel list out there that doesn't list this city in its 'Top Ten Must Sees'. This city has virtually exploded internationally and has quickly rose to the top of the top in terms of travel, luxury travel, foodie travel, etc.
     In 2011, TripAdvisor gave Cape Town the "Top Destination of the World" title in its Travelers' Choice Awards. The year after, National Geographic placed in at number 2 on its "Top Ten Beach Cities" list and listed it as one of its "places of a lifetime".  And, as if National Geographic wasn't enough, it's also been slotted in Business Insider's "Top 20 Cities For Expats."  This sets the expectation bar pretty high. If I had a resume half as impressive...

So many lists! So much glamour! So much adoration!
Cape Town: So hot right now.

     It's a colorful, trendsetting, hot-spot of a city, rich with a long, complex and complicated weave of history, nestled in one of the most beautiful locations on the tip of an entire continent. So yes, it lives up to the hype.

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     Cape Town was the end destination of my South African cross-country road trip. We drove into and stayed in Cape Town two separate weekends away from our Southern "home-base" of Hermanus. The drive in from Hermanus was via a scenic, country, highway weaving our way through mountains and, yes, more wine fields. 
     We crossed into the metropolis and was promptly greeted by the wall-like, intimidating facade of Table Mountain. The city sits in its shadow. And its influence and impressions can be found everywhere. Business logos, products and apparel, artworks, etc all feature the jagged outline of the prized mountain. It is a truly astounding geographical location; mountain meets sea, so the obsession over it is warranted.

     We settled in at Blue Mountain Backpackers on Long Street, the backpacker hub of Cape Town, and walked about in search of light food and hearty drink.  We stopped off at a bright, multi-teared, wrought iron building, comfortingly named BeerHouse, and posted up. The architecture of Long Street reminded me so much of New Orleans. Colors, ornamented balconies, rowdy groups of pedestrians, and street performers... This was truly a backpacking district .

     After settling our stomachs, we drove up Signal Hill to view Table Mountain, Lion's Head, and the city below. Standing above it all, looking out towards the sea, I was actually taken aback by how small Cape Town actually is. It is beautiful of course, but so  small! Maybe I've just become accustom to getting lost in Asian mega-cities; but the scale of South Africa's 'Number One Tourist Hot Spot' fit into this small crescent of land like a tiny peg in a tiny hole. Rightfully named the "City Bowl" Cape Town fits into the "dish" of the mountain like a petite, yet nutritious and hearty, cultural stew.

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     South African history is complex, turbulent, layered, and rich with culture, heritage, and lore. Cape Town or The Cape, being first "sighted" in the late 1400s and in time settled in 1652 by Jan van Riebeeck, set South Africa in motion as being the trading post of Africa. I'm a history nut and a can't resist an old building ladened with history and a story as fundamental and complex as any in Cape Town. So naturally, seeing the Castle of Good Hope was high on my list for Cape Town sights.
     The Castle of Good Hope (I love that name!) is a pentagonal shaped fortress on the tip of the city centre. The beautiful, Dutch, architecture shines through in contrast to the blue of the ocean with its unmistakable yellow hue. It was nice exploring this mini labyrinth of corridors, stairs, and canons turrets over looking the city. Old meets new is ever prevalent when you're standing on top of this castle over looking the city and see a portrait of Nelson Mandela overlaid on the windows of a neighboring skyscraper. A beautiful reminder of the past, the changes and progress, and the optimism of a post-apartheid South Africa.

Interior of The Castle of Good Hope.

“Perhaps it was history that ordained that it be here, at the Cape of Good Hope, that we should lay the foundation stone of our new nation. For it was here at this Cape, over three centuries ago, that there began the fateful convergence of the peoples of 
Africa, Europe and Asia on these shores.” 
– President Nelson Mandela, during his inauguration speech on May 9, 1994

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     Cape Town is a great city; full of great restaurants, curios shops, art, and [expensive] drinking holes. But, if you're looking to escape to a more laid back tone, I suggest heading just outside of Cape Town to chase some penguins in Simon's Town or drink a locally brewed beer in Darling.

     Simon's Town has beaches... with pygmy penguins. Pygmy penguins! Need I say more? A short, beautiful, windy, scenic drive away from the heart of Cape Town and you can have these little guys running about freely at your feet. Sounds like a dream. But this dream is in fact a reality in Simon's Town. There is a national park/protected nature reserve where you walk out on a long wooden pathway that ends at an open beach to commiserate with the little ones in their tuxedos. 
     Trying to get upclose and personal with our GoPro, my boyfriend was leaning over a railing to get a shot of two adult penguins who were curious about us walking by. He leaned so far over that his sunglasses fell off into a protected part of the park. Chris tried to lean over and grab them, but the little dudes quickly made it clear with their menacing, open beaks and squawking that the glasses were now theirs. The sunglasses looked like they were goners until a pair of park rangers happened to walk by. The rangers stepped over the railing and the two little penguins ran off. Glasses saved.
     Pair those little penguins with super trendy beach bars full of waspy cliental and mega-homes this Cape Town adjacent is a fantasy. Though, the penguins were great, Simon's Town wasn't for me. The wealth gap here was blatant and too much for me to truly enjoy myself in all honesty. It was just too posh for me to feel the need to spend any length of time there. I'd rather trade in my overpriced cocktail for a beer more worth my time.

     Beer, you say? 
     About an hours drive from Cape Town is the small town of Darling, which has been put on the map by Darling Brew. The town is tiny, quaint, and only a few streets wide. It almost reminded me of a fantastical little Wild Wild West town put up in the middle of nowhere.
     The brewery was lovely. Small, but lovely. The beer menu was larger than their food menu, but I actually love that for a little craft beer tap room. Warm, welcome, quaint, and yummy.


Slow Beer tasting palette at Darling Brew


     Cape Town is beautiful, yes.  But.  I can't say I'm aching to go back.
     When I told people, South Africans and non-South Africans alike, that I was heading to South Africa for travel and otherwise many people blurted out:

     "Cape Town! You're going to Cape Town right?"
     Yes, but I'm not going to be based there. I'm going to be based in Pretoria.
     "Oh."

     After that "Oh", there is genuinely a distinct upturn of the nose. I've heard a lot about, and have  witnessed, this unmistakable Cape Town VS Gauteng rivalry (We have something similar with Michigan and Ohio.) It's not exactly a civil rivalry in comparison. The line is drawn deep in the sand. There is an air of pretentiousness when it comes to Cape Town (At least that was my experience), and I must say that it's a bit of a turn off.  Please, for the sake of your stunning city, don't let that attitude overshadow it.
   
     Rivalry aside, there is so much more to the country than just one tiny (but beautiful) city! Your country is huge! And diverse! Please, when others tell you that they are going to travel your beautiful South Africa, don't dissuade them from seeing it all.  If I travelled all the way to South Africa and only spent my time in Cape Town I would've felt truly cheated.

Will I go back to Cape Town?  Yes.
Anytime soon?  Nah.





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Who Is Your Travel Muse?

1:02 PM Jmo 3 Comments

     I once had an art professor, when lecturing about content and connecting to an audience, bluntly state: "No one cares if you paint a portrait of your Grandmother." 
     I understood what he meant. He wanted his students to realize that when making art you should generally expand your content and connect to a universal theme rather than keep things strictly in a  personal context.   
   Though I understood the concept, I still found the statement to be a bit unsettling and rash. It stuck and has resonated with me to this day.
     Personal relationships, though exclusive and in context, undoubtedly shape us in to who we are today. So. Why not make art about them? 
And, why not write about them for that matter?
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     Some of you may know, or might've noticed, that I have a tattoo on the inside of my left arm. The tattoo is of a mama elephant and her young nestling up against her. I get a lot of questions about it (especially since I've been in Africa). 
     Well, to put all the assumptions aside... the image represents my Grandmother and I.  I got it done on my first trip to Cambodia; the first trip that I one hundred percent payed for on my own.  
     See, when I was young, my Grandmother would babysit my brother and I while both of my parents were off working hard into the weekend. She would occasionally stay over the weekends and I grew up drawing and making odd little crafts with her. (Our favorite being dried mango pits that we painted to look like tropical fish.)  But, aside from the crafts, one of our absolute top things we used to do together was watch National Geographic. She used to record them on VHS them for me. I watched them over and over to the point where to film became worn and streaky. 
     We watched black panthers battle anacondas in The Amazon, worker ants make bridges of their bodies to carry others up the trunks of trees, and time lapse footage of the decomposition and regrowth of the forest floor. But, by far the standout of our National Geographic Explorer's video collection was a program on elephants in Africa. I distinctly remember my Grandma pointing out how the little ones will hold onto their mother's tails as they walked through the mud and the affection she had towards them. I think this was her favorite and elephants in general quickly kinda became our 'thing'.
     I decided to get the tattoo as a symbol to carry along with me forever. I decided on elephants because of her of course, but Asian elephants specifically to commemorate my first big trip. She would've been so excited for me (and scared I'm sure). And not to mention, proud. She pushed me in my creative pursuits. She loved to read and was constantly thumbing through articles or cutting out news clippings for my brother and I. She loved the idea of adventure and exploration.  And she loved us.
     
     Unfortunately, she was never able to travel abroad herself. She passed away too soon. Too young. And she was never able to see our elephants.  But she left behind two grandchildren, forever in her debt; using the tools she taught us on those nurturing Saturday mornings. I owe so much to her and her zeal for learning, exploring, and the belief that I could do anything.  
She is my travel muse.
I think about her every time I step onto a plane. 
So, now with my elephants, she gets to travel with me. 
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     I do, of course, admire many explorers and naturalists who have left their marks in the pages of adventurer history. I love reading about old and new exploits and they continuously inspire and ignite  the flame.  (William Beebe and Otis Barton, the pioneers of the bathysphere,  are exceptionally high on my list.)  But. There's nothing quite like a grandmother to trump even the fiercest of idols.  For me anyway~


     Who is your travel muse? Who inspires you to take the next step, or perhaps the big leap? Is he or she a famed Arctic explorer? Or is it a family or friend? Who challenges, excites, and prods at you to do and see more?
I'd love to hear your story of inspiration.
Explore on.
 
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Drinking With The Locals: Clarens Craft Beer Festival, South Africa

7:02 AM Jmo 1 Comments



     Beer. If you don't like it, you should probably stop reading this right about now. My affinity for beer started where most do: In college. But! I stand firm in my proclamation that my tastes and palettes have matured since then, (dare I say, much like a fiiiine brew...), and I've moved on from the beer pong swill variety to more delectable concoctions.

     Being from Michigan, it's a little difficult not to be on the craft beer train. It's everywhere. And it's damn good. With over 120 breweries to its name, we seem to be doing something right. And, at least  from my perspective, we have little sign of stopping. It's now ingrained in our culture.
     That's why I'm so excited to be in South Africa during this steady and relatively recent upswing in craft beer interest. It's not just about the beer (though, some may argue differently). In my opinion it's about a community of people. A community of people crafting a meticulously labored and painstakingly delicious product. Beer brewed with heart tastes better. 
That's just science.

     Based in Pretoria, I headed out with the three founding members of the Friar's Habit Brewery round the river and through the woods to the Clarens Craft Beer Festival. Louis, Friar's Habit's Brewer and festival judge, has long lauded that this festival in Clarens was the best and the one to be at in South Africa. I couldn't of been more excited. Sign me up!
     This festival, nestled into a small town bordering the country-locked nation of Lesotho, featured twenty of South Africa's top breweries and gourmet food to pair. This, combined with the pang for yet another road trip, did my Michigan heart good.
     
Day I of the Festival: No Rain, YET!

     Clarens is approximately a four hour drive from Pretoria (though my boyfriend claims he got us there in 3 and a half). It's a beautiful little town with overtly tourist-welcome shops, art galleries, inns, and stopovers. The beauty and the mountain air drew us in and breathed new life into us as soon as we stepped out of the car. But along with the mountains came rain. Lots and lots of rain. Actually, "rain" doesn't really do it justice. 
     Just after we finished off a commemorative brew at a Clarens staple, Clarens Brewery, the wind began to pick up and the skies quickly turned a cool grey. We entered the festival across the street and within a half an hour the skies opened up and unleashed some mountain fury. There was thunder, there was lighting, tents and tables were beginning to take a tumble... If this were a festival in The States there is no doubt in my mind that it would've been called off. But, nope! Not here. The beer lovers pressed on and hunkered down; ready to battle the elements with a pint in hand. 
      
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     The beer was going down, the scenery was amazing, the rain was subsiding, but there was one problem: We didn't have a place to stay. Like a squid with no ocean! We were left to the elements in a town packed full of beer goers; everything was full. Now now, we did have accommodation at the start of all this, but the weather took it upon itself to deny us our camping ground. The woman who ran our accommodation called us mid-storm to ask what type of vehicles we were driving...  

     We're in a Polo. 
     -Oh. And what about the other car?
     It's a Golf.
     -Yep. No, sorry. Your cars wont make it up the hill in this rain. You need to find somewhere else.

     Or I assume that's how the conversation went... Anyhow! We were without a roof over our head for the evening. At least we had a beer tent?

     Just when it looked like we were sleeping in our cars, the amazing family from the Agar's Brewery offered to take us in! They were such lovely people and honestly couldn't of been treated any better. Their home was beautiful and the view was just as surprisingly lovely as the offer to stay. I hope to meet up again soon. Thank you, thank you, thank you.


Louis playing bagpipes to the mountains of Lesotho.
   
     My time spent in Clarens at the Clarens Craft Beer Festival was well spent. It felt warm. It felt homey. And I felt cradled among good friends and new just as the mountains cradle this beautiful town. This was a much needed road trip out of the city of Pretoria. South Africa's countryside is vast, ever-changing, and full of surprisingly little towns like Clarens. I hope to return soon; and yes, drink more beer. ~Cheers! (Psssst, tasting highlights below!)

Enjoying the beer, the crowd, and the rain!


Tasting Highlights:
Here are some beers that, personally, stood out to me. Whether it was creativity or staying true to a classic, these beers kept me and the crowd going all weekend long.


-Riot: I'm a sucker for a good, hearty, IPA. Safe to say, it's one of my favorite beer styles. But IPAs can't just all be hops and fuss, there has to be some heart in there or else. That's exactly what I enjoyed about their Simcoe IPA. It was good, ohh so good. Their Simcoe IPA was a single hop IPA with a warm, amber, color. Tangy, not at all overly-bitter, MMM! I had... multiple of them. I'm actually craving one right now... -I just found out they took home 3rd in show! Nice!

-The Cockpit Brewhouse: Yes, I was a sucker for their 1940's pinup girl branding... but after I was lured in by their facade, I stayed for their beer. Cockpit's Spitfire Ale was predictably great, but, what was surprisingly good was their Strawberry Weiss. Now, I'm normally not a "girly drink" kind of girl. But. This stuff. This stuff was lovely. It had the fruitiness and slight tang of a daiquiri with the nice light finish of Weiss. I've heard from brewers and tasters alike that it's difficult to pull off a good, flavored, Weiss without being too overpowering and 'blehh'. Well Cockpit Brewhouse, put me down for a "Yes, please." and a "Thank you."

-THAT Brewing Co.: Taking home best in show for obvious reasons, THAT Brewing's award winning stout was just THAT good. It was rich, it was deep, and it was, simply put, a nice, beautiful beer. It wasn't overly filling for a stout, (Which I feel may be a South African characteristic, and one that I happen to enjoy) but didn't rob you of any of the loveliness a stout craver would crave either. Good job everyone involved!  



     But remember: Beer is not the answer. Beer is the question.
 "Yes", is the answer.

Friar's Habit's Creative Director, and taste-tester, enjoying the fest~!



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1 comments:

Pretoria to Cape Town: Part II: Christmas In Africa

9:46 AM Jmo 0 Comments


(Part I of my Cape Town to Pretoria road trip can be found: here )

     This was my first official coast-to-coast, border-to-border, road trip. I've road-tripped before, but only in my home country North to South. That being said, I fear that it will be hard to top this one based on newbie-excitement and variety alone. The ecological diversity that takes place within this country's borders is stunning. The rugged hills that sprouted up from a virtual dessert reminded me of California. It's vibrant and saturated colors reminded me of the Cambodian countryside marsh. And its quirky roadside vegetation, paired with the occasional curious ostrich, connected me back to old memories of Australia. Onward!

These are now my new favorite trees.  It's official. hehe

     Along with diving in and properly exploring and experiencing this amazingly colorful country, was the end goal of reaching Hermanus to have Christmas at Chris' Dad's holiday home. That being the ultimate finish line, I was already incredibly spoiled. 
     Hermanus is a little resort-esque town just South East of Cape Town. Driving past the karoo our surroundings quickly turned the corner from Antie Em's farm in the Wizard of Oz straight on to the technicolor of Munchkin Land. (Ok, that might be a bit much.. but just saying, "It was beautiful.", doesn't exactly cut it sometimes.) The desert of the karoo disappeared and lush, colorful, wine fields took over. But, plainly said, the wine country just outside of Hermanus and Stellenbosch was beautiful. Never having been to Napa Valley or the wine fields of France, I'd never seen anything like it. Rows and rows of grapes in between valleys and windy roads trailed us all the way to the end. I was getting thirsty.

     When we arrived into Hermanus it was obvious that this was a "holiday town". It just had that vibe. Little shops and galleries, wine tasting cafes, touristy oceanic excursion outposts, and sculptures of the town's mascot, a whale, seemed to pop up everywhere. It was definitely picturesque. But. I felt slightly intimidated. This town looked like it had some deep pockets. And the budget-backpacker in me was cringing. Thankfully we had a place to stay with Chris' father, but if you're looking to stay here as a backpacker don't be so quick to judge as I was! I did a little bit of research and there are some budget friendly hostels in Hermanus for around $15USD a night! Not bad for a holiday-home town nestled in wine country! And, if you do find yourself this far South... I highly recommend you pass on through Cape Town and spend a few lazy days at this whale watchers hot spot. 
(Note: December is extremely high season for holiday goers in SA. Try to avoid these times. Besides, you'll miss whale watching season if you do!)


"Downtown" Hermanus. Stunning!

     The beaches of Hermanus are quite vast and beautiful. The main beach was impossibly empty because of how broad and far-reaching it was. This was great for privacy and that "private-beach" feel, but this also invited along the huge gusts of wind in replace of a typical beach crowd. Forget sun burn, expect sandburn. There were days when we had to turn right around and head back to the car and pray that a few showers would detach the sand granules from our scalp. From a geographical perspective, this would be highly expected. You're on the Southern cape of Africa for crying out loud! Don't expect a calm sea. Expect huge waves and churning tides... and the great whites lurking beneath. I guess this serves as a metaphor for South Africa in general. The beauty of its landscape is always juxtaposed with the unrest within in it.  

     Some areas of the beach tapered off into more brushlike seasides and reminded me a bit of Maine or Scotland with their orange moss and purple flowers. These areas were beautiful to walk along and hike; therefore, we spent the greater part of our time there. Hiking is a must when visiting. The trails are fairly moderate and, once you do make the top of a ridge, you are rewarded with incredible views of the cape below. 
     We mostly cooked at home, so I have few restaurants to report on unfortunately, but don't let that be a subtle sign. Hermanus is full of them. And what ones we did try were lovely. I've yet to eat a bad meal since I've arrived in SA. (The food... ohhh, the food~)

     Now. Back to that it being "Christmas" thing. I realize this post is coming to you later. It's not exactly 'Christmas-In-July-late', but it's pretty darn late. But so much has happened here in South Africa since that it's been hard to keep up, hence the backlog and 2-3 posts per week in an attempt to catch up. My time since in SA has been set to rapid fire speed and in an attempt to take it all in I quote Ferris Beuller: "Life moves pretty fast. If you don't stop and look around once in a while, you might miss is."

Beulllllerrrrr.....

     Now, I can only compare Christmas in South Africa to Christmas in The United States or South Korea because those are the only two places I've lived. For the most part, they were similar. But, like with most things, it's the differences that always stand out. That being said, here are a few differences:


Christmas In SA VS Christmas In USA:

1. "Christmas Is Only One Day, Jess!": 
     Christmas happens on Christmas Day. Not the day before, not the weekend before, not throughout a season... Christmas Day is on Christmas Day. Simply that. I was often told how "Christmassey" I was, or how excited I seemed to be about the Christmas season because I kept referring to whatever day it was in December as "Christmas". I was poked fun at a bit and it took me while to understand why. In The States it's common to have Christmas parties or events weekends leading up to the big day. But here, not so much. It's fairly low key and, respectively, only celebrated December, 25th. 
     On Christmas Eve I pushed for, and cooked (with Chris' help), a mini feast for my host family just because that day is special and celebrated big back home. Once again, I was poked at a bit. But hey, whatevz. 

2. Forget About Commercialization: 
     That's right. No Black Friday, no advertising being shoved down your throats starting the beginning of October... and thank goodness! What comes with a low key Christmas is low key advertising. This allows you to revel in what the holiday really should be. It should be about being with family rather than being with complete strangers in line at a Toys R Us. 
     Sure, there are a few decorations in a few shops... but home decorations, from what I saw, were minimal as well. My host family insisted on putting up their decorations for me and for me alone as they hadn't done it in years. I wore my childlike badge of honor with pride as I hung up my ornaments. Maybe I reignited an old tradition? 
     But! Instead of putting up the ornaments and garland on a pine tree... it was a mini baobab tree! (Baobabs are trees native to Africa, can get pretty huge, and have large, thick, trunks.) Adorable.

The baobab Christmas tree; complete with Michigan ornament.

3. Paper Hats, Crackers, & Minstrels:
     Now, these are somethings I'm thinking of adopting into my family traditions back home. Taking a nod to British heritage, many South Africans crack party favors before dinner, dig out their little toys, read the jokes and put on colorful paper hats. It was cute, whimsical, and bestowed upon everyone at the table a little childlike fun.
     But! Perhaps the most amazing thing about spending Christmas down in Hermanus, South Africa were the "minstrels" that played throughout the neighborhood late Christmas Eve and Christmas afternoon. A group of locals, with trombones, guitars, saxaphones, etc., walked through the city streets playing Christmas carols. Maybe this is just a Hermanus thing? Even so, it was great and I haven't really experienced anything like that aside from a parade or organized event. It was beautiful. Children came out, barefoot, from their homes to watch, some people danced in the streets... I loved it! This, this should happen more!


South African "Christmas Carolers". Such a great tradition!

4. "Holiday Time" Means A Month Off of Work : 
     Falling in line with a more European way of things, South Africans enjoy their holiday time and tend to take advantage of it. Businesses close down, people go away or go home, but one thing is certain: Holidays are staples. Some businesses closed for the entire holiday season only to reopen mid January! I actually met many people in South Africa who fell into this category and I applaud it. More time off! Enjoy life! Work hard, play harder!

5. It's like, Soooo Chill Man:
     Low key, dressed down, and relaxed, Christmas in South Africa is a ...day at the beach. (I apologize for the pun but this post was just aching for a beach pun.) It's actually a traveling dream since everyone is encouraged to take a break and do so. So, if you're ever inclined to skip the snow, Africa is calling and has a glass of wine waiting for you.


     Spending Christmas in South Africa was both surreal and swept clean of familiar Christmas nostalgia. Though I'd spent the last two Christmases away from home, the third  one felt particularly "away". The last two Christmas seasons I'd spent in South Korea with a plethora of snow, cold, and expats ready and willing to go to great lengths for atrocious holiday sweaters. But here, I had to trade in my red and green for pastels and bright fuchsia. The town centre had a few holiday signs and I did spot a Santa hat or two, but nothing compared to the tinsel thrown around The States. In a way, it was nice that it didn't feel like Christmas. I'd just left home again and was already feeling a bit under the weather about it. A little disconnect was welcome. If that makes sense...
     It was a privilege, and quite the cultural switch-up, spending Christmas here. Of course I missed my family (desperately at times), but this was a warm place holder. Of course, it was lovely to meet everyone and spend time at the sea. I can't complain. Ever. Really, I can't. But I can stand on my soapbox here and rave about homesickness. And perhaps three Christmases away from home was enough. It may be time to break this streak.



 Have you ever spent Christmas abroad? Where? 
Homesickness? How did you cope?
I'd love to hear from you!

Merry Christmas From Africa~!



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